It has long been known by most of us that proper tire inflation can save on fuel costs. Many people, however, do not realize that proper tire inflation not only prolongs the life of the tire, thus saving on replacement costs, but also impacts on the wear and tear experienced by various parts of the steering assembly itself. Additionally, proper tire inflation simply makes driving safer and easier by reducing the amount of corrections and control required from the driver.
Safety is also impacted when proper tire inflation is combined with regular inspections and other appropriate tire care steps because there is less chance of unexpected tire failure in dangerous highway driving and other traffic situations.
Had I been inspecting the tires on my Buick a bit more carefully on a certain hot Summer day in 1997, for example, I probably would not have found myself trying to change a tire on the 18 mile long bridge over the Atchafalaya river and swamp in Louisiana as 18-wheelers thundered by just inches away.
So, all year round, increased safety and fuel economy can rest on something as simple as regularly inspecting your tires visually and maintaining proper tire inflation pressure. It is also a good idea to make note somewhere of when tires are purchased, including both date AND mileage. Many of us tend to let such bits of info slide into the background as we drive at top speed with our loved ones on tires which may be nearing the end of their effective, safe lives.
Due to weather changes and road conditions in various areas, additional checks, maintenance, and operations may be called for.
Winter presents unique challenges in some areas and in almost all areas from time to time. Cars may become stuck in snow, roads may become icy, and vehicles may slip and slide at exactly the worst time possible. Winter is NOT a time that you want a tire to fail, so the usual inspections and maintenance become even more important. Properly inflated tires can help maintain traction as well as aiding in regaining control in skids and slides. If stuck in snow, by the way, try to avoid spinning your used tires. This can cause overheating of the tire and may possibly contribute to a future failure of the tire.
After Winter has done its damage to drivers in many parts of the country, a new phenomenon may appear in abundance. Many new potholes happen due to a cycle of freezing and thawing of water under the roadway. Potholes can be tire killers at any time of the year, but, because of this cycle, there seems to be more of them after Winter has passed. Often, the damage a pothole inflicts on a tire is invisible, although the damage to the steering may become immediately evident due to the “pulling” of the vehicle to one side or the other, or vibration which wasn’t present before.
Obviously, avoiding potholes completely is the best way to protect your tires against damage. However, as we all know, this is not always possible. Here is a tip on how to hit a pothole with minimum damage to your tires. First and foremost, do NOT brake during the impact itself! This creates a solid impact at a given point and will produce the most damage. Instead, brake as much as it is safely possible up to just before impact and release the brakes in time to roll across the pothole. This will result in a rolling contact which produces less damage in most cases.
When deciding on proper inflation pressures, your car manufacturer will usually provide the recommended pressures in the owner’s manual and also on a data plate commonly located on the door frame, in the glove compartment, or under the hood. However, aftermarket tires purchased later may require different inflation pressures. In this case, it is good to check with the tire dealer on what would be the best inflation pressures.
Let’s think back to that damage the pothole may have done to your steering. It may also have affected the balance of your tires. All of this can affect the life and performance of your tires, and this sort of damage is happening in smaller ways every time you drive your car. Therefore, don’t forget to have tires rebalanced and alignment checked if you begin to feel vibration or notice pulling or unusual or uneven tire wear. You also should have tires rebalanced whenever you have your brakes worked on and any other time that it is necessary to unmount and remount your tires.
Last, but not least, a word on tire rotation. Obviously, not all tires are going to experience the same wear at the same time. For this reason, it is usually considered a good idea to periodically rotate tires. Your best bet in most instances is to simply go with the car manufacturer’s recommendations, but a rule of thumb might be to rotate tires every 6,000 miles on most cars, and every 4,000 miles on cars with 4-wheel drive.
SAFETY TIP: Avoid tire patch kits that just push an adhesive cord into the puncture. The puncture may have created an opportunity for air to get beneath the tread. The tread could then blow off while you are driving the car, or, as in come cases, it may blow off when the tire is being aired. Injuries have occurred in some of these events. Do not EVER try to patch a puncture in the sidewall.
In these days of high fuel costs, and with the possibility of even higher costs in the future, this is a simple way to improve fuel economy. When you consider that you can also prolong the safe and effective life of your tires as well, you will not only be putting more money in your own pocket but will be helping reduce the power needed to produce more new tires and help reduce America’s dependence on foreign oil as well.
Although abounding humans accept that Auto Antagonism is a actual big-ticket amusement because of the big-ticket cars and clue cost, they are wrong. Because of the ample amount of active schools and advance about the country, a brace hundred bucks already gets you able apprenticeship and on clue active acquaintance in acceleration cars. There are abounding types of antagonism that you can learn, from Nascar blazon active to Formula 1 or even Off alley racing. Below are abounding abundant online writing and books with abundant tips and acquaint on how to get started in the sport.
Being able is the better advantage any racer can accept if the blooming banderole drops. One of the best means to be able is to complete a absolute analysis of the car and alt he auto accessories. The abstraction is to stop agitation afore it starts.
Here are some of the tips that has been given by expert auto racers regarding the auto racing. Keep It Safe!
* Analysis all Grade 8 SAE bolts for self-locking nuts. Accomplish abiding they are still in abode and tight.
* Accomplish account checks for anatomy accident and cracks in welding. This is added important on clay area the clue can advance a car.
* Analysis seat belts weekly. Watch for rips, tears, ease-of-release mechanisms and ascent points. Analysis accurately for abrasion at credibility area the belts go through the seat. Attending beneath the bench to see the ascent of the abysmal belt. Check all the auto racing accessories before entering any race.
* Analysis brakes afterward every race. Are the pads cooked? Are the cesspool valves tight, hoses/lines not damaged/nicked? Rotors should not be bedimmed or cracked. Circuit rotors to analysis for warp. Are rotor vents and calipers blocked with debris?
Once all the assurance checks are complete, the account is torn down to specific areas of the car.
“We go from the alfresco of the car to the inside,” Armstrong says.
* Spindles. Analysis for gouges in all machined areas, boundless play in bearings and arbor washer/nuts. Attending for cracks in tie-rod holes.
* Hubs. Analysis for boundless play in bearings, the action of accoutrement on the lugs and how the lugs are army to the hub. Slowly circuit the hub to analysis for out-of-round. Hubs are the aboriginal account Armstrong checks. He looks for cracks in the stud holes.
* Upper/lower brawl joints. Analysis the mounting, boundless play and accoutrement for accident and acceptable grease.
* Upper/lower A-arms. Analysis all basics for tightness, accoutrements for aeroembolism or gouges, bushings for abrasion and the ascent bowl for absurd welds at the frame.
* Tie-rod ends and sleeves. Attending for aeroembolism or gouges, boundless play in the ends and cracks in the sleeves. Are washers/nuts block affianced properly? Are the sleeve basics tight?
* Council box including pitman and idler arms. Use a ball-joint spreader to analysis the angle in anniversary piece, attending for leaks in the ability council box, pump and lines. Run through left/right turns to analysis for binds and beneath than adapted travel.
* Center link. This is a section that should be corrective regularly. Paint will dent if hit by a bedrock or channelled abundant to bend. Analysis holes for abate and wear, and analysis that the washers and block pins are appropriately attached.
* Anchor lines. Analysis anniversary band one at a time to ensure thoroughness. Start at the adept butt and go to anniversary bend of the car with a apple-pie rag to analysis for leaks. Then run your fingers forth anniversary band to analysis for nicks and gouges. Attending for kinks and bluff than accustomed aeroembolism that could cut the breeze of fluid. All fasteners—including hold-down clamps—should be tight.
* Calipers. Are the ascent and hold-together bolts tight? Are the bleeders bound and not roughed up? Is/are the pin(s) that floats the pads afterwards bind? Is the pad abrasion OK and analogously distributed?
* Radiator and cap. Is it clogged? Are too abounding fins bent? Analysis all mounts for defended fasteners. Is the cap bound and in alive order?
* Shocks. Analysis all mountings, basics and block pins (if used) for able installation. Any dents in the alien tube? Are the shafts chargeless of gouges? Attending carefully for any acquaintance from adjacent components.
* Anchor aqueous action and level. Analysis the smell, blush and arrangement for overheated damage. Is there abundant aqueous in the adept cylinder? Are the adept butt ascent bolts tight?
* Driveshaft. Analysis U-joints for boundless wear/play, the shaft for bluntness and the welds for cracks. Attending carefully for how abundant shaft comes out of the tranny. Marking is one way to see if the two are separating. Any scratches on the capital physique or ends? How abutting is it to the assurance loop?
* Lower ascendancy arms. Analysis for bluntness and any bends. Analysis mounts, bolts, basics and bushings for pullout. If you accept any all-around rod endings, accomplish abiding they accept the able washers installed.
* High ascendancy arms/pull bars. Same as above, additional analysis the astriction on the pullbar.
* Rear-end apartment and gears. Analysis all awning nuts/bolts. Analysis for leaks at adhere and apartment locations as able-bodied as arbor ends of the housing. Are anchor mountings tight? Are arbor tubes straight? Is there too abundant adhere play? Are all mountings of accoutrements and shocks bound and not absurd at the welds? And don’t overlook the simple one—enough aqueous in the rear?
* Clue bars. Analysis for straightness, ascent of bolts, basics and washers. Analysis mountings for cracks in brackets and welds.
* Ammunition cell. Analysis for any new scratches or dents on the alfresco container. If found, analysis inside. Are the accessories for ammunition auto and basin tight? Ammunition clarify and ascent tight? Is the corpuscle army deeply to the frame? Accomplish an attack to consistently analysis the ball-check valve if the corpuscle is abandoned to ensure actual operation in a rollover. If the corpuscle is out of the container, analysis the float for abrasions, rips and tears. Every time you attending at the ammunition cell, consistently analysis for leaks.
In the engine bay, the account becomes added itemized because there’s added to monitor. In fact, the lists we’ve apparent are added than bifold in numbers if it comes to blockage the engine.
That was the case if we talked to Rick Knowles of Willis, Michigan, who contest a pavement Late Model at Toledo, Ohio, and Flat Rock, Michigan. Knowles says his aggregation does a actual complete analysis of the engine and other auto accessories to accomplish abiding it is active properly.
“I acquaint my guys to not be angered if I bifold analysis them and they can bifold analysis me because the abstraction is to acquisition the problems first. It doesn’t amount who finds it. We use a aggregation access to analytical the engine. Spark bung affairs are consistently a botheration if they appear off afterwards we analysis the gaps. So we use one guy to analysis that and he announces he has accomplished that allotment of the analysis so the blow of us apperceive it,” Knowles says.
“We breach it down to the high and lower locations of the motor for two guys to attending over. But everybody looks for oil leaks. It doesn’t amount who checks the burke linkage, I consistently analysis that afresh myself.”
Such a complete analysis can crave complete concentration.
“Checking basics and bolts is one affair we do patriotically,” Knowles says. “These things accept a addiction to agitate basics and bolts loose. I aswell do a array of ‘pre-flight’ at the clue area I agitate the auto and attending for apart bearings and bad joints in the car.”
Here are some added engine checks from Knowles:
* Analysis all hoses and clamps. Attending for tears, cuts and leaks and analysis the binding of clamps. Some racers use two clamps per corrupt end to ensure tightness.
* Analysis all belts and pulleys. Attending for abrasion or aberrant wear, apart pulleys and nicks.
* Analysis aqueous levels for agreeable and leaks. This includes ability steering, oil, clutch, radiator and brakes.
* Analysis overflow tanks (radiator and oil) and cesspool if needed. Attending for aqueous leaks or stains from leaks.
* Analysis to accomplish abiding valve covers are bound and not leaking.
* Are the caster brackets tight? Analysis the alignment of belts.
* Analysis and apple-pie the radiator. Remove elastic and dirt, and analysis the action of the fins. Attending for leaks.
* Air-box seals. Attending for openings in the air box. Is the allowance intact?
* Radiator mounts. Are they bound and not cracked?
* Analysis fan blades for damage. Analysis the fan’s ascent bolts for tightness.
* Electrical connections. Analysis for apart access including the battery, annihilate switch, starter, cockpit switches, terminal block and ignition. Analysis the action of all affairs and terminals.
* Charge the battery.
* Accomplish abiding the oil burden ablaze works.
* Analysis ammunition curve from the ammunition corpuscle to the carburetor. Analysis for kinks, leaks, aeroembolism and wear.
* Burke bond and springs. Analysis for “no-bind” operation. Analysis for at atomic two absolutely operational acknowledgment springs.
* Motor mounts. Analysis for tightness, aeroembolism and cracks.
* Benefactor cap, rotor and wires. Analysis benefactor cap for cracks and wear, rotor for chips and wear, affairs for defended band on both ends and burnt or bedimmed wires.
* Shifter linkage. Are all accouterments secure? Does the shifter move advisedly and does it absolutely appoint the gears?
* Analysis all engine and tranny basics and bolts for tightness.
The floor mats are a lot of alone auto accessories. Though mats accept to buck a lot of of the dust and dirt, mud, and water; humans tend to avoid them. However, if you wish the interiors of your car to be hygienic, to accomplish it added appealing, and assure the aboriginal mats and awning floorboards, you accept to accept the custom attic mats of acceptable quality.
Why do you charge superior custom attic mats? You perceived the answer… Yes, attic mats assure the floors of your cars. The mats are all-important to accumulate floors accurate and clean. If the superior is good, you can advance or even enhance the agreeableness of your car floors. Better the superior of the mats you get added hassle-free will be the maintenance.
The attic mats appear in altered designs and styles. Though the bazaar abode is overflowed with attic mats, accepting any attic mats is not traveling to accord you adapted results. Accepting the best superior mats alone matters. How to acquisition the best quality? There are assertive ambit that you charge to accumulate in perceptional if purchasing attic mats.
Find out the superior of the actual used. The actual acclimated is the a lot of important aspect you charge to consider. The achievement of your car mats is anon proportional to the superior of the actual used. The a lot of approved afterwards abstracts are cellophane vinyl and top body nylon. The a lot of accepted brands in the States use these materials.
Another important aspect is the blazon of action acclimated to accomplish attic mats. The accounted architect will consistently use acid bend technology and certified authoritative processes that agreement the quality. Lets take the example of scooby doo car floor mats. They not only make your car look like some how unique to to other cars. Moreover it shows that you are concern bout maintenance of your car.
The a lot of accepted custom attic mats brands are Carpet-70 Ounce, Clear Nibbed, Nylon Carpet attic mats etc. Carpet-70 ounce mats are fabricated of 70 ounce adequate nylon. These are actual able and action comforts to your feet. Latest CAD/CAM technologies are acclimated to accomplish the custom attic mats.
Custom attic mats are accessible in advanced ambit of colors. You can even add claimed designs on these mats. So, get the custom attic mats of your best and accomplish your active added adequate and exciting.
Riding the bike without safety measures can be a greater risk for you. Motorcycle equipment or motorcycle parts which claims to offer protection to the rider must comply with the European Commission’s Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) legislation (Directive 89/686/EEC). All protective armour must be tested and approved to the European Standard EN1621-1/1997. To gain the CE mark products have to be tested and approved by an independent, Government approved test house. While the CE mark can’t guarantee to prevent all injuries in an accident, it may significantly reduce the severity of your injuries.
Checking the conformity can be pretty tricky, as some clothing will carry the CE mark, but not conform. For example a set of leathers may be fitted with CE compliant armour, but not be constructed to meet the standard. Look for the tell tale notice in the label, which normally reads “This garment is not considered to be personal protective equipment as defined in the EC directive etc.”. Generally speaking clothing which meets the standard will offer better protection, but usually at a higher cost.
Try to avoid big bulky motorcycle jackets such as padded Ski type jackets, Thy will give you no protection if you come off the bike, they will obscure the mirrors, the wind tends to get in and blow them up even bigger and you get affected by the wind more. Bike jackets can be leather or fabric, Leather gives the best protection if you come off, fabric jackets tend to be more practical in that they work well in all weather. Good alternatives would be denim or heavy waxed cotton
At the top end of the market some manufacturers have used the Cambridge University Protective Clothing Research Facility. From this the Cambridge Standard has been developed and has established itself as the leading benchmark for motorcycle clothing protection standards. Amazingly only and handful of clothing manufacturers meet this standard.
It’s also important not to forget your hands and feet when buying your gear. You’ll need to choose clothing that provides good safety protection and still lets you operate your bike comfortably. Protection from the elements and motorcycle parts should also be a consideration. Again, leather seems to offer the best all-round properties.
Basically Car stereos come in two basic sizes: Single-DIN Car stereo and Double-DIN Car stereo.
Single-DIN: 178mm wide x 53mm high; approx. 7 inches wide x 2 inches high
Double-DIN: 178mm wide x 106mm high; approx. 7 inches wide x 4 inches high
The depth is not standardized, so measure the dashboard cavity to see how far you can go.
DIN stands for Deutsches Institut für Normung, the organization that set standards for German-made car audio. These were adopted internationally in 1984. DIN refers to the size of the in-dash car stereo unit, also called the head unit. DIN, the German Institute for Standardization, develops norms and standards as a service to industry, the state and society as a whole. Deutsches Institut für Normung e.V. (DIN; in English, the German Institute for Standardization) is the German national organization for standardization and is that country’s ISO member body. DIN’s primary task is to work closely with its stakeholders to develop consensus-based standards that meet market requirements. Some 26,000 experts contribute their skills and experience to the standardization process.By agreement with the German Federal Government, DIN is the acknowledged national standards body that represents German interests in European and international standards organizations. Ninety percent of the standards work now carried out by DIN is international in nature. DIN connectors is an example of DIN standards that are today used around the world.
When talking bout DIN car stereo, DIN refers to a standardized radio/stereo size for vehicles (large enough to accept a CD). The size is 2″ high by 7″ wide. 2 DIN or double DIN refers to units that are twice as high as the standard DIN, and so 1 DIN would be the standard DIN specification. A problemw ith double din car stereo size is that if you get a double din car stereos size you would have to cut around the car to make it fit, 7 inch double din dvd players are more popular over here but i thing the single dins look better. A Single Din is the standard size of a head unit (the stereo in the dash of your car) a double din is twice as large. Double dins are good for cars that have large stock head units like a caddyhas. Single dins are good for most cars, that way you can just slide the old head unit out wire the new one and slide the new one in without having to cut your dash any.
When the all-new 2010 Buick LaCrosse goes on sale this summer it will be more stylish and luxurious. The LaCrosse, you may or may not recall, is a midsize sedan. Launched as a 2005 model, we liked it. And the new design is part of a plan by General Motors to revamp the Buick lineup much as it successfully did with the Cadillac lineup. The change to the Buick line started with the Enclave midsize crossover SUV, a vehicle that impressed us greatly.
Part of the GM’s goal is to win younger, more affluent buyers for the Buick brand. The new LaCrosse was created with great attention to detail, craftsmanship and advanced technology, says Buick, and it builds on the success of Enclave and serves as the next step in Buick’s renaissance.
The 2010 LaCrosse is built on the next generation of GM’s global midsize car architecture, formerly known as Epsilon. The Buick LaCrosse is the first domestic car on the new platform, so it doesn’t share with the Saturn Aura or Chevrolet Malibu, as you might suspect. Overseas, the Opel Insignia, which recently won the European Car of the Year award, uses the same architecture.
The new LaCrosse was developed globally. The architecture was designed in Europe, the interior styled in China, and the body design and vehicle integration completed in the United States. Compared to the outgoing model, the 2010 LaCrosse is about an inch shorter with a wheelbase that is 1.2 inches longer. This moves the wheels farther to the corners and results in a more athletic stance. The exterior styling employs cues of the Buick Invicta concept car shown at the Beijing auto show in China in 2008. The sculpted sides and waterfall grille are influenced by the Enclave.
Buick says the new LaCrosse will be the quietest Buick yet thanks to Quiet Tuning, which involves acoustic laminated glass, triple-sealed doors, liquid-sealed sound deadening, and special designs for the suspension bushings, engine cradle and mounts, and steering and induction systems.
The 2010 Buick LaCrosse will be offered in CX, CXL, and sporty CXS models. The V8-powered Super model will not return.
All models will use direct-injected V6 engines. Standard in the CX and CXL will be a new 3.0-liter V6 that will find its way into several other GM vehicles. In the LaCrosse, it will make 255 horsepower and 211 pound-feet of torque, and Buick estimates fuel economy ratings of 18 mpg city and 27 mpg highway. The CXS model will come with GM’s proven 3.6-liter V6, which will produce 280 horsepower and 261 pound-feet of torque in the 2010 LaCrosse. Buick estimates fuel economy numbers of 17/26 mpg for the CXS and says it will be capable of reaching 60 mph in less than seven seconds. Both engines will use a six-speed automatic transmission, and the CXS will have a manual shiftgate.
Front-wheel drive will be standard. The CXL model will also be available with an all-wheel-drive system with an electronic rear limited-slip differential that can send power side-to-side along the rear axle, which is a sophisticated setup.
CX models will have cloth seats and 17-inch wheels, while CXLs will be get leather upholstery, 18-inch wheels, dual-zone automatic climate control and fog lights. The CXS will heated and cooled seats and chrome-plated 18-inch wheels with optional 19s. Also standard on CXS will be a real-time damping system with three settings to adjust ride quality, as well as steering, throttle, and all-wheel-drive system calibrations.
That sounds all sounds very good. We loved the handling of the outgoing LaCrosse but thought the ride quality was a little choppy on rough metro freeways.
Inside, the 2010 LaCrosse will be more pleasant than the outgoing model, with real wood trim, blue-lit instrumentation and ambient lighting, and stitched leather trim on the dash. Other available features will include Bluetooth connectivity, gps navigation, a USB audio interface, a rearview camera, adaptive headlights, a head’s up display, and GM’s new Side Blind Zone alert system.
Pricing hasn’t been announced, but we expect the LaCrosse to increase from its mid $20,000s starting price given the added features and interior quality.